At the tourismo, I met (20 something) Peter who informed me about the high points of Grandola. At his suggestion, I left my 17 kilo pack in his office and set out to see Grandola, a charming town of 10,000, made famous in a song that was sung during the 1968 revolution. After going a few blocks, I stopped in the Clovis, a neighborhood bar for a Superbock draft beer. I met the owner Arimondo Carlos Freice Goncalves and asked to move a chair out onto the sidewalk and into the sun. Arimondo brought out my beer and some very tasty lima beans (tremocos – “seafood for the poor”) and some peanuts … more heaven. He was the first of many people through out my trip that I heard bad-mouthing Goerge Bush! Walked around more and decided to move on to Santiago do Cacem/Sines. I failed to mention the magnificant weather: sunny, clear blue sky, low humidity, with a light breeze. Back to the tourismo office where Peter had been replaced by Marta (30 something with exposed cleavage), Peter returned and I said my adiux. On my way to the bus station, I went into a nearby shop to get a snack/drink for the 1 hour trip. On a whim, I asked if it was OK to carry a beer on to the bus. The attendant said, “Of course, why not?” Why not, indeed. So, with Sagres and bread in hand, I settled in (a large red and white, 44 passenger, manual shift bus, Rodovaria Company). We made several stops, picking up school kids and old ladies with shopping bags; but no goats or chickens. Incongruisly, there was American rock music playing on the sound system with English language lyrics. We were on a hilly, winding, paved 2-lane road, with hiarpin turns. When we encountered a large truck or another big bus, it was alarming, but no one seemed to notice except me. This was mostly dry farm country and every building was white with red tile roofs. I saw cork trees and related stacks of cork bark, lots of sheep with shepards tending their flocks by day and a few round, squat windmills. There were orchards of orange and lemon trees, as well as the occasional castle on a hill. After 2 hours, we came to the final stop – Sines. This was the birthplace of Vasco de Gama. There was a prominant castle on a hill and a commerative statue.
Damn!! The campground is closed for the winter (??75F day, 55F night and sunny). I found a dumpy Pensao for 15 Euro/night (vs 55 Euro for a hotel). Dropped off my pack, walked to and around the castle. On my way back, I heard the unmistakable sound of pool balls striking each other. Entered the open door of the bar and joined in a friendly game of partners “snooker” (played like 8-ball, on a 4.5′X9′ table with tight/narrow pockets. Drank 25CL size bottles of Superbock (about the size of a “short” beer in Cincinnatti, OH) and had fun. The beer was served in nice glasses, wonder if I could buy some, how to get them home? I played for 1 hour and bought a round for the 4 of us, for 3 Euros)
